Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
